Near the top of the Crushpad 30 White Wine Plan Companion is a simple question:
Style: Describe characters you would like to highlight or downplay in your wine.
Sounds like a simple request but one that I find difficult to put
into words. Sure, I've had some Roussanne I really liked from both
California and the Rhône but what were the specific elements that made
these wines something special?
Before
we get into this any further, let me back up and talk about the
Roussanne grape as this might be new for some readers. Roussanne is
native to the northern Rhône region of France where it is one of two
white grapes, along with Marsanne,
allowed in the appellations of Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and St.
Joseph. It's also grown in the southern Rhône where it is often blended
with Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Clairette Blanc.
An inconsistent producer, Roussanne is not grown in large quantities
anywhere in the world and there are less than 250 acres planted in
California today. The name Roussanne most likely comes from it's
russet-colored berries when ripe. Wine made exclusively from this grape
is highly acidic, but high in aromatics, so other white grapes are
often blended to balance the final wine.
The Westerly Vineyard was established in 1995 by entrepreneurs Neil
and Francine Afromsky. These were the first wine grapes planted in the
Happy Canyon area of Santa Barbara's warmest wine region. They planted
85 acres of Bordeaux and Rhône varieties and developed a name for the
vineyard with their Westerly Vineyards
brand. Last year they sold the Westerly Vineyard to Chicago financier
Jack McGinley, but retained the "Westerly Vineyards" brand and access
to the grapes grown in this vineyard. Thus, the vineyard name change
and it's unclear if we can use Westerly on the label of our Roussanne
this vintage.
Westerly Vineyards Roussanne is released as a blend simply called,
"W Blanc" which is mostly Roussanne (75-80%) blended with Viognier.
Both the Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate have favorably reviewed
Westerly Vineyards W Blanc which I will excerpt below:
Wine Spectator:
The 2004 W Blanc Estate (75% and 25% respectively) exhibits a light
gold color along with a gorgeous nose of honeyed flowers and tropical
fruits, good underlying acidity, and bold, exuberant, intense flavors
nicely buttressed by acidity and tannin. This serious, French-styled
white is reminiscent of an exotic white Hermitage. Drink it over the
next several years. 90 points
Wine Advocate:
The 2003 W blanc (80% Roussanne and 20% Viognier) offers up a
beautiful, crisp bouquet of rose petals, apricots, and exotic tropical
fruits (passion and guava). An elegant, streamlined effort, it exhibits
more minerality than most California dry whites, as well as a dry,
well-delineated, ravishing style. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. 90
pts.
Although this sounds almost exactly like the style of Roussanne I
prefer, it seems to lack the aromatic and flavor characteristics of
mandarin orange that I find so fascinating with this varietal. Perhaps
this aspect will be in our grapes or we might need to trade some juice
with another Crushpad Marsanne group to introduce this complexity. I
will buy some bottles of Westerly Vineyards W Blanc to taste for myself
and will also bring them to group barrel tastings of our wine as a
benchpark.
Whatever the final decision, what do you think we should aim for style-wise with this wine?
