Some 30 Crushpad clients, staff and friends tasted, talked and debated their way through 7 California Chardonnays on Thursday’s tasting. Here’s a quick run down on 3 of the wines poured.
First up, the Rita’s Earth Cuvee from Babcock. This is a summer afternoon sipper…unless of course you live in San Francisco. Here, you’ll need mittens, ear muffs and a scarf to prevent fog induced frost bite when attempting to enjoy a crisp white on the patio. If you live outside of the Bay Area, think one of those grey skied Opening Days at Wrigley Field or any baseball stadium north of let’s say...Anchorage. Welcome to June in San Francisco.
Winemaker Bryan Babcock sourced fruit from 6 vineyards in or around Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Ynez. The nose offers citrus notes of Meyer lemon and a wee touch of yeast. Vibrant acidity and heaps of minerality play nicely across the palate and make one sit up and take notice. While I love the layers of complexity that can be found in barrel fermented Chardonnays, when the sun is out or the thermometer creeps above 75, I often get a hankering for more straightforward, zesty, stainless steeled friends. Babcock fermented in 80% stainless and cut off malo early to brighten things up. The wine was aged on lees for 5 months in 25% new French oak. For more aromatics, he tossed in a dash of Riesling sourced from Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. Serve with sunglasses and sandals.
Stepping up to the plate next was a wine also sourced from the gusty & chilled Sta. Rita Hills. The 2004 Foley had a discreet nose with slight hints of green apple, almond and caramel. Was this going to be a crisp and zesty kissing cousin of Sauvignon Blanc or a creamy, browned butter approach to the grape? The expected green apple was absent on the palate but, the round mouthfeel with vanilla and pear wasn’t strong-armed into place by a heavy presence of oak. After speaking with the folks at Foley, I was surprised that oak didn’t play a heavier role in the bottle. Winemaker Alan Phillips barrel aged the wine in 40% new, medium-toast French oak for 10 months after fermenting his 3 Wente clones in stainless steel. Nicely done.
Fruit for the 2005 Flowers was picked over the course of several weeks from 12 separate vineyards from the Sonoma Coast AVA. The layered nose included light floral notes of violets as well as wisps of grass and hay. Again, I thought this might be a fairly lean and light approach but was surprised by the full-bodied, round mouthfeel. Splashes of pineapple and cream lingered throughout the mile long finish. Winemaker Ross Cobb allowed full malolactic conversion and 10 months of aging in 30% new French oak on the 2005...an elegant wine.
I'm hoping some kind souls will offer insights on the 2000 and 2004 Talbott Chardonnays from Sleepy Hollow Vineyards! Different approach to the grape. And, If I'm not mistaken, Z even likened the ultra ripe 04 to Dolly Parton. Don't be shy!
